The Best Brushes for Different NZ Dog Coats (A Buyer's Guide)
Walk into any pet shop and there are 30 brushes on the wall. Most owners pick one that looks about right and hope for the best. Here's the honest guide to which brush actually suits your dog's coat — and which to skip entirely.
The quick answer: matching brush to coat
The five tools every NZ dog owner should know
1. Slicker brush
Fine, bent metal pins on a flat or curved pad. Best for: detangling and finishing on most coats except smooth single coats. Use it last in any brushing routine to lift the loose hair raised by other tools. Self-cleaning versions are worth the extra $10 — a button retracts the pins so you can flick the fur off without picking at it.
2. Undercoat rake
Wider-spaced teeth designed to reach through the topcoat and pull out shedding undercoat. Best for: long double coats — Huskies, Goldens, Border Collies, German Shepherds. Should glide through the coat with gentle pressure; if you have to dig, you're pressing too hard. Once per session is enough during peak shed.
3. Deshedding tool (Furminator-style)
A serrated metal blade that grabs and lifts loose undercoat. Best for: short double coats — Labs, Staffies, Boxers, Beagles. Use sparingly — once or twice a week during peak shed only. Over-use damages the topcoat over time. Effective but not gentle.
4. Rubber curry brush
A soft rubber palm-mounted tool with short nubs. Best for: smooth single coats (Frenchies, Whippets, Boxers) and short double coats (Staffies). Used in circular motions, it stimulates oil production and lifts loose hair. Bonus: dogs usually love it — feels like a massage. Many owners use it during bath time as well.
5. Metal comb
Wide tooth on one half, fine tooth on the other. Best for: post-brush check on all medium-to-long coats. The comb finds matts the brush missed, especially behind ears, under the armpits, and on the rear legs. If you can pass it through cleanly, you're done. If you can't, more work needed.
Tools to avoid (or use very carefully)
| Tool | Why most owners shouldn't use it |
|---|---|
| Mat splitter / dematter | Useful in expert hands but easy to nick skin. Most matts should be carefully combed out or, if severe, clipped out by a groomer. |
| Hair clippers (DIY) | Never use on double-coated dogs — can permanently damage coat regrowth. Single coats only, with the right blade. |
| "Magic" deshedding mitts | Mostly novelty. Acceptable for very light shedding or sensitive dogs but won't keep up with peak shed. |
How to know if your brush is right
Three quick checks after a 5-minute session:
- Is your dog calm or stressed? The right tool should feel okay — not painful. Visible flinching means wrong tool or too much pressure.
- Is the topcoat shinier or duller after? A correctly-used brush stimulates oils and leaves the coat looking better. A wrong tool roughs up the topcoat.
- Are you getting undercoat — or just topcoat? Lift a section of fur after brushing. If you see fluffy undercoat in your brush, great. If you see only longer guard hairs, you're damaging the protective layer.
Shop the grooming range
Slicker brushes, undercoat rakes, deshedders and the Plush Puppy show range — everything tested by our team.
Shop Grooming
